Paris Day 1 Boat and About

We started with a river cruise up and down the Seine. For this we walked from the apartment down to the river and then tried to dash as we felt we might be running late for the timed ticket that we had. Proof that judging walking times is a tourist's peril. The tour was fairly simple, along the river to the Eiffel Tower, then back past our origin to go around the island in the river that has the Notre Dame cathedral. Using binoculars on the famous metal tower was more effective than I expected. Such a boat trip is inherently about going under bridges, so almost all were named and described for us. What I hadn't realised until the second pass is that what I assumed was gold decorations on some bridges was a bazillion padlocks that had been left locked to the gratings. Apparently the tradition is for lovers to affix a lock and throw the keys into the river. After the boat tour we walked along the right bank, which was made up as a beach for people, esp children who hadn't left (Paris) for the summer. Thus we made our way, mostly back the way we had come, heading for the Musee Carnavalet. Somewhat hungry we found another excellent Chinese restaurant. Good prices and it was funny that while we were able to choose dishes by sight more than with English, some French speakers who came in after seemed to need more guidance (might be my mistake as I didn't understand a word). The Musee Carnavalet almost defies description but is run by the City of Paris and has a sometimes bizarre assortment of art, furniture, curios and historical gems. For example, kept under blinds were personal artifacts of Marie Antoinette. There were also entire reconstructed rooms in various period styles, frequently with authentic matching (if sometimes decayed) furniture. It's hard to call it must-see but I can't easily imagine having not seen it. As some staff were on lunch breaks whole sections had been closed off for an hour. Next we headed to the Metro to zip over to Le Palais Garnier (National Opera/Ballet), where we paid for a guided tour. Our guide was quite fun in a grumpy way but had to contend with a very loud busker nearby (singing a Leonard Cohen song in French). Like so many things in Paris the opera house has a mixed history being built before, through and after the Revolution. Even so, the key word is lavish although with many a theatrical stage painting technique. Our guide was keen to point out the fake bits. A particular feature is the theatre space ceiling, where an original but smoke stained painting has been covered by a modern painting by Marc Chagall. It's mostly used for ballet now as the national opera prefers a larger capacity venue. Then we walked all the way to Montmartre to see the Sacre-Coeur basilica. Another choice that looked easier on the map than it proved to be. Certainly I had under-estimated the size of the hill. However, it did mean that we walked through Montmartre, which is clearly a little bit hipster just as its reputation has it. As we neared the church we saw a few people using a clearly dodgy practice to distract tourists - classic pickpocket technique. Needless to say we avoided them. Every church is in many ways just another church and few are really alike - I can't now recall if Lee was taking photos, or whether it was allowed in this one. Back on the street in front of the church is a very good view of half of central Paris. The quality of the view and our tiredness from the hill climb gave us the excuse to drop the plan to take the Metro down to Montparnasse where there is a tall building with 360 degree views. Instead we hopped off the train near our apartment.